Pilgrimages, in the sense of being a walk to a sacred site, have their roots in the Jewish tradition of requiring the faithful to step foot inside Jerusalem. The desire to visit the places where Jesus lived promptly became popular among Christians also, who for various reasons both devotional and to cleanse themselves of sin covered many miles on foot.
History has changed pilgrims’ destinations but Rome, as the centre of Christianity, remains until today the preferred point of arrival for thousands, who come from all directions, to walk along the Via Francigena. The Via Francigena is a medieval route that stretches across Europe from North to South linking the main sacred sites - Santiago di Compostela, Rome and Jerusalem.
The route starts in Canterbury where many centuries ago Christianity took root in Britain and from where pilgrims and travellers started their walk along ancient paths. Today’s paths needed to be rebuilt as the originals, after being used by a multitude of people from different counties and speaking different tongues, become a comprehensive network of roads. Along the way pilgrims were welcomed by monasteries, parish churches, abbeys, hostels and hospitals, which all gave life to the countryside and cities around them. In reality there is not just one Via Francigena because depending on the political circumstances of the era or time of year, certain routes were chosen instead of others.
Today associations of pilgrims have united to breathe life back into these walks and once or twice a year they set off from North, South, East and West to reach at their journey’s end in Rome. Their passage is characterised by simplicity, in fact their days on foot are broken by short stops to rediscover the pleasures of nature and to become familiar with the traditions of those living in the towns and villages along the way.
The reasons that motivate a person to undertake this adventure are varied from choosing a break in natural settings to the desire for new experiences or that of testing the idea of having an intelligent holiday. It is not only a spiritual holiday but also the chance of rediscovering a rhythm of live that is now lost, of finding beauty in new places, the scent of nature and monuments that are difficult to access via mass tourism.
SOME ADVICE FOR PILGRIMS
Use appropriate clothing, comfortable shoes with a rippled sole and protection for ankles, and a water and windproof jacket. In a waterproof rucksack take a change of clothes, water, energy foods, an umbrella and rope to help get across the boggy parts of the route. It is advisable to carry a stick to better cover the more challenging paths and above all if you are covering long stretches, to always have a source of respite like a car or minibus that can be driven in turns by walkers, and that will come into its own in case of difficulties.
The best period in which to do a walk is when the days are dry but not too hot. Carry cell phones, seeing as the route often takes you along little used roads, and in case of an emergency the numbers to remember are Carabinieri 112, Emergency number 113, Fire Brigade 115 and Ambulance services 118.
SELECTED ROUTES
The Southern Via Francigena snakes down through lower Lazio into Campania and Puglia, where it continues after a sea voyage from Brindisi to the holy land and the final stretch on foot to Jerusalem. On route in Lazio the following cities are encountered: Capua, Sessa Aurunca, Castelforte, Minturno/Scauri, Formia/Gaeta, Itri, Fondi, Terracina, Fossanova, Priverno, Maenza, Sezze, Bassiano, Sermoneta, Carpineto Romana, Ninfa, Segni/ Montelanico, Rocca Massima, Cori, Giulianello, Velletri, Nemi, Castel Gandolfo / Albano and Rome. The route goes through numerous little known but rich and fascinating places, several National Parks including parco degli Aurunci, parco dei Lepini, parco dei Castelli Romani, parco dell’Appia Antica and nature reserves like those at Ninfa and on Lake Giulianello. The walk has Roman and medieval roads and passes by important basilica from the twelfth-century, ancient churches like those at Segni and Carpineto Romano, cathedrals and the remains of Roman temples.
The Northern Via Francigena starts from Canterbury and ends in Rome. The final part passes through Siena, Buonconvento, Montalcino, Vignoni Alta, Radicofani, Acquapendente, Bolsena, Montefiascone, Viterbo, Vetralla, Sutri, Campagnano di Roma and La Storta. This section of the Via Francigena goes prevalently through hilly terrain and at approximately half way meets the splendid scene of Lake Bolsena. Also on the Northern route parks and nature reserves feature heavily like the Riserva Naturale di Monte Rufeno the Parco della città di Sutri, the Riserva Naturale del Lago di Vico and the Parco della valle del Treja. Once Rome is reached with entrances made on any of the following, via Cassia, via Casilina, via Appia, the Appian Way, via Amerina or via Clodia, pilgrims converge on the ancient city and in doing so meet those who have come in from different directions.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Along the road pilgrims can find a bed in agriturismi (farmhouse hotels), holiday homes or with families. Once in Rome the options for where to stay are massive from Religious dormitories to Hotels, B&Bs or rented rooms.
WHERE TO EAT
The route covers many regions, cities and villages and, as always in Italy, there are plenty of possibilities to enjoy local recipes and delicacies wherever you pass through. In Rome you are embarrassed for choice as the numerous trattoria and restaurants whether they are run by famous chefs or families are ready to offer you a fine meal of traditional Roman dishes.
